Friday, May 1, 2020

Day 46 - SkyLines from the French Lock-down: May Day - Time for Good Luck

 Bonjour nos amis! (Hello, our friends!)

It’s May!  Hooray! But while we are still in confinement, this year we will celebrate the approach of summer quietly. No dancing around a bonfire this year. But we are going to follow one French fashion and usher in May with flowers and sunshine. Best of all, you are here to join us, in a virtual way. 
We choose to celebrate May with flowers

Day 46 - May Day. We slept with the window open and woke up early. Maybe because the sunshine arrived early and lit the hallway with daylight earlier than it has for a long time.

A May tradition
Maybe it was the birds. I got up at six and shut the window. It wasn't cold, it was the blasted, er ahem, I mean sweet and blessed birds. Love 'em to pieces and really like them even better if they let me sleep. I know, it's a quandary. I'm not an easy woman to please...

The breakfast table holds more than our typical cereal, yogurt, juice, and coffee today. There is a vase of flowers. This year they came from a supermarket instead of the traditional curbside vendors. The rose and ferns are optional. The sprigs of Muguet (Lily of the Valley) are compulsory! They are absolutely necessary to ensure good luck for the coming year.  But I digress. Let's talk about May Day in France.

There are three ways to celebrate - or even four, if you count not celebrating it. The first is the pagan celebration of Beltane, (Beltaine in French) the celebration of the day we move closer to summer than we are from spring. It is a time to plant and care for the crops that will feed us. It is on the opposite side of the pagan circle of the year from the Autumnal festival of Samhain (Halloween) the end of the harvest season. The traditional Maypole (mât du mai)  is the symbol of this festival as are the bonfire dances on April 30th. This is not widely celebrated by the French. Just as they do not make a big deal of the modern religious celebrations, they tend to be quiet about the ancient celebrations.


May Day is marked on the calendars as the "Fete du travail" (Labor day) and is the way to celebrate this day that most French people would cite. It makes sense because it is a
Chestnut Tree in bloom
paid
 holiday from work. It is held to celebrate the rights of workers. Marching ranks of workers parade throughout the country and usually there are protests (as with almost all gatherings of French people, as far as I can tell.) I expect if I mention this to Y, my French partner, he would say it is "obligatoire!" (required). 

Yeah, this year it's not really happening. Those who are at home aren't working and those who are considered essential workers have to work. I told Y we needed bread and he told me that no one would be open today. But he went out anyway and came back later totally shocked by the discovery that not only was the bakery open but so were the grocery, pharmacy, and butcher's shop. He gave me the baguette and exclaimed, "C'est incroyable!" (It's incredible.) I didn't tell him that in America, we would think it was incredible that everyone had the paid day off. As a
Wildflowers bloom because
trimming the grass
is considered unessential!
side note - the celebration of the laborers in France was modeled on a Chicago trade union that protested for an 8 hour workday on the 1st of May in 1886. The red flag they carried eventually was changed to 
the symbol of a red rose then later became a lily of the valley. Which brings us neatly to the third way the French celebrate the day. It's my favorite!

It is the third way of celebrating this day that touches my heart. It  is the selling and exchanging of “Muguets des Bois” (Lily of the Valley). They are also called "porte-bonheur" literally, "bringer of happiness." These fragrant, petit flowers are exchanged on the first of May as a token of friendship. In the lead up to May, every shop sells bouquets or pots of these lovely flowers. Knowing that this year, there would not be individuals selling them on the street corners, we picked up ours at the supermarket. The house is perfumed with the scent - and it gives me such a lift. 

I’ve read it is from the musk they produce, and this almost explains their French name, Muguet.  Can you believe that in medieval times, it was considered a man’s fragrance?  I’ve read that right up until the 19th century, the word “Muguet” was synonymous with ‘elegant young man.'  Actually, I wonder if that tradition might explain the heavy perfumes many men
Muguet des Bois
here wear today? Y worries that I am talking about 
 him. Just a moment.  "Non, mon amour - J'adore ton parfum. Ne t’inquiète pas!" I tell him, meaning I love his Christian Dior scent.He does not need to worry. Back to our discussion on this May custom.

Just why did the French choose May first to exchange these flowers?  Well, the blooms appear from the end of April and throughout the month of May, so it is the flower of the moment.  There is also a lovely story that says the French king, Charles IX, started this tradition in 1561, when he gave sprigs of Muguet des Bois to his courtiers for good luck. There is a dispensation that allows anyone to sell Muguet on this day. Normally only florists may sell flowers. I love seeing the stalls along the roadsides and the gardeners in front of their houses with little tables selling bunches of good luck. I'm missing that tradition this year but if this lucky charm works, our luck will be good, and we will buy them on the streets next year.

After breakfast, we took our flowers with us out on the terrace and read in the sunshine. I sipped coffee and take this time to write to you. It is a beautiful day to contemplate the end of the cold days. When I finish this blog, we  plan to take a long walk. I'm fairly sure we won’t see any lily of
Flowers tumble over a wall
the valleys along the river or in the flower beds
. There are no woods nearby. But in my heart, I offer to you virtual Muguet des Bois flowers; they are your bearers of good luck and happiness.  This is our wish for you, a year full of good luck and friendship.
  
The walk was lovely and I took a lot of photos as usual. I'll add a few here to share with you. On the way back home, the sun was still shining but a light rain fell. I wondered where the clouds could be to drop rain on us while the sky was so blue? Like the stories we are all hearing and reading during this strange time of quarantine, it is just another mystery. For now, there is no mystery about the fact that we are all stronger together. 

Eventually, we will find ourselves on the other side of this epic struggle to
Good luck for the coming year
get through. Courage. We will make it! We are succeeding at keeping the curve down. The flowers are just a symbol to wish us all luck. It can't hurt.

A demain, les amis! Et Bonne Chance toujours!)
(Until tomorrow, friends! And Good Luck, always!)

Link to Day 47

6 comments:

  1. Thank you for the lovely blog today. I enjoyed learning about the French holidays, and how they are celebrated. It is interesting also to learn the meanings behind the blooms. We have some privet shrubs in our yard that have recently bloomed and are very fragrant! In May the weather is so pleasant in Memphis. It is my favorite month here!
    Enjoy your day! I also wish for you a year of happiness, good fortune, and friendship!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Merci, Linda! May is the queen of the spring, I think. I loved the privet shrubs in my California home too. I miss going to my garden, but in a few weeks, I will see it and probably faint at the amount of work it's going to take to reclaim it from the wild. (hee hee!) I will try to continue to blog now and then once our confinement ends. There are so many customs and festivals I love here. This year will see changes and so it may pass that it is only in photos and words that I can share them. We shall see. Hugs!

      Delete
  2. Glad you had a nice day. So did I. The florist shop near me had re-opened this week and had a sign saying they would be selling muguet on May 1st. I did my "Friday shopping" on Thursday this week because everything (except the florist) was going to be closed on May 1st. Right? Wrong in my neighborhood, too. The cheese shop was closed but the boulangerie, both butcher's, the wine shop were all open as well as the florist. I guess they are trying to make up for lost time.
    I came home with my muguet and went up to give a "brin" to my young neighbor who has been checking on me from time to time and offering to do errands. Just about lunchtime, I got a call from a former neighbor and still friend. She has lived in La Réunion for about 5 years but when we were neighbors we each gave each other a brin de muguet every May 1st (left as it should be, in front of the door for the other to find.)
    Since she moved, we have to send each other photos of muguet by email. This year she decided to call instead.
    By the way, I remember when (talking about the Fête de Travail part of May 1st) there was no TV that day -- until the 8 p.m. news followed by a film. That stopped in the 80s -- I think because of the arrival of Canal +. Ask Y if he remembers.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I loved reading this, thank you, Sandy! How lovely to have spoken with your friend. (I was in La Reunion for New Year's to meet Y's family - it's amazing and I'm glad to see that they have not suffered with infection as much as l'hexagone.) Y says he was in the military and assigned outre-pays, so he didn't know about the TV on May 1. By the time he was working in Paris, the changes had already come. Take care and I hope the weather is going to be better and better for you in the north and not too hot for those of us in the South! (I don't have my summer clothes at this house!) xx

      Delete
  3. Lilies of the valley bring back memories from grade school! I went to a small Catholic parochial school in Boston that has since closed. In the month of May, our recess was out on a baseball field next to the school grounds. Behind the field was an old, wooded and overgrown cemetery with iron railings closing it off. (I think it was a part of Forest Hills Cemetery.) But two of the railings were bent open, probably done by teenagers. The teachers warned us continuously not to go into the cemetery, but a lot of us girls snuck in to pick the lilies of the valley that grew in there, among the sunken headstones. After recess, most of the girls would have a bunch of the flowers on their desks, and the class would smell like heaven.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I really like reading about your memories, Maria. I can just imagine having the class smell like heaven. Merci, for this lovely image.

      Delete